Switzerland
is one of Europe's most visited countries, but one of its least understood.
Pass through for a day or two and you'll get all the quaint stereotypes
– cheese, chocolate and clocks – but not much else. Stay
a bit longer and another Switzerland will emerge, which can be an
infinitely more rewarding place to explore. Sights are breathtaking,
transport links are excellent and costs are no higher than in Britain
or Germany. Almost everyone speaks some English along with at least
one of the official languages (German, French, Italian, and, in the
southeast, Romansh).
Notoriously placid these days, Switzerland spent the first 500
years of its existence rent by conflict. The Swiss Confederation
(abbreviated to "CH") dates back to 1291, when Alpine
peasants formed an alliance to defend themselves against the Habsburgs.
By the early 1500s, it had grown into a military superpower. The
Swiss reputation for neutrality emerged with the Reformation and
persisted right through to the boom years after World War II. In
the 1990s, exposés uncovered Swiss banks' wartime collusion
with the Nazis. Public soul-searching in the aftermath of the scandal
heralded Switzerland's entry into the UN, and its first steps towards
joining the EU.
The most visited Alpine area is the central Bernese Oberland, which
has the highest concentration of picturesque peaks and mountainside
villages; the loftiest Alps are further south, where Zermatt provides
access to the Toblerone-peaked Matterhorn. In the southeast, forested
mountain slopes surround the chic resort of St Moritz. Of the northern
German-speaking cities, Zürich has a wealth of sightseeing
and nightlife possibilities and provides easy access to the tiny
principality of Liechtenstein on the Rhine. Basel and the capital
Bern are quieter, each with an attractive historic core, while Luzern
lies in an appealing setting close to lakes and mountains. In the
French-speaking west, the cities lining the northern shore of Lake
Geneva – notably Geneva and Lausanne – make up the heart
of Suisse-Romande. South of the Alps, sunny, Italian-speaking Ticino
can seem a world apart, particularly the palm-fringed lakeside resorts
of Lugano and Locarno, with their Mediterranean atmosphere.
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