The floating emerald islands of the Indonesian archipelago have, for centuries, been a magnet to a diverse range of people. Chinese and Indian traders, European colonisers, proselytizing missionaries, wayward adventurers, mining companies, intrepid travellers and package tourists have all, at one time or another, been attracted by its sandalwood and spices breezes, its Bali Hai lifestyle and its magnificent beaches, mountains and volcanoes.

Just across the water from East Java sits Bali, the longtime jewel in the crown of Indonesian tourism, a tiny island of elegant temples, verdant landscape and fine surf. The biggest resorts are the party towns of Kuta and adjacent Legian, with the more subdued beaches at Lovina and Candi Dasa appealing to travellers not hell-bent on raging nightlife. Most visitors also spend time in Bali's cultural centre of Ubud, whose lifeblood continues to be painting, carving, dancing and music-making. The islands east of Bali – collectively known as Nusa Tenggara – are now attracting bigger crowds, particularly neighbouring Lombok, with its beautiful beaches and temples. East again, the chance of seeing the world's largest lizards, the Komodo dragons, draws travellers to Komodo and then it's an easy hop across to Flores which has great surfing, and the unforgettable coloured crater lakes of Keli Mutu. South of Flores, Sumba is famous for its intricate fabrics, grand funeral ceremonies and extraordinary annual ritual war, the pasola.